Types of Breakers
Breakers
If you have ever been to the beach, you have seen breaking waves. Have you ever thought about how a wave breaks? Waves traveling toward the shoreline eventually begin to slow due to interaction with the bottom. The crest of the wave, however, does not interact and remains moving at the same pace. The more the bottom energy drags along the bottom, the more the crest tips over until the wave eventually breaks in a zone called the surf zone.
What causes some waves to spill and others to plunge? That answer lies on the ocean floor. The shape of the shoreline determines the three types of ocean waves called breakers. In this interactivity, you will explore the three types of breakers. Click the player button to get started.
View a printable version of this interactivity.
Complete the Catch a Wave activity on the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration website. Notice how the shape of the shoreline changes the wave provided for the surfer. For a quick review, try to the questions that follow the activity.
Types of Breakers Review
Now that you have learned about the different types of breakers, check your knowledge. In this non-graded interactivity, read each statement and select the correct response. Click SUBMIT to check your response. Click the player button to begin.